1968: The Morning After, Yellow Wall Bivy Ledge

When I was seventeen, Michael Covington and I did the 2nd ascent of the Yellow Wall Route on the Diamond. (See The RURP on the Yellow Wall for the fuller story). On day one we schlepped our huge loads up to the bivy cave on Broadway at 13,000 feet where he climb starts. The next day was socked-in with clouds but it never stormed. Due to the cold conditions, Michael asked me to do most of the leading that day, including the notorious A4 pitch, and we arrived feeling good at the Yellow Wall bivy ledge for our second night out. We had our stove and pot and half-bags and down jackets and spent a lovely night on this perfect ledge that was covered with wild flowers. We were only the third party of climbers who had been there. We woke the next morning to a clear sunrise over Nebraska and when this picture was taken we were felling very good, especially knowing that we could finish the remaining three pitches before noon and start the long descent.

A three day ascent like this was standard for doing the Diamond in 1968. But starting in 1980 when we were free-climbing only, I figured out (duh) that doing it light and fast in a single day was the only way to go. Thus was born the infamous “Diamond Day”.

Today the Yellow Wall Bivy Ledge is pounded dirt, visited by hundreds of climbers every season doing the Casual Route that passes thru this spot.