CHIP CHACE - SEA OF KNOBS

Four or five pitches up a 5-star route called the Sorcerer’s Apprentice on Fairview Dome, Chip and I encountered this 5.8 pitch (Tuolumne ratings). It was a smooth wall, no cracks, covered in knobs. Our topo showed one bolt halfway up the pitch. It was Chip’s lead so he took off and was soon feeling intimidated by the complete lack of protection. He moved upward slowly and with a lot of complaining and some grunting. He was not happy. Finally he got to the bolt. Yippee! Now he had to do the same thing and run it out another sixty feet to the belay. Finally after about 45 minutes he got up the pitch. This shows it’s quite possible for a 5.13 climber to get spanked on a Tuolumne 5.8. It happens. For my part in this, I had a lovely romp up this pitch with a top rope.