THE DIAGONAL DIRECT

The first climb on the Diagonal Wall was done in 1959 by Ray Northcutt and a young Layton Kor. It was named “The Diagonal” and departed the main crack system at mid-height to gain a big corner far to the right that led to Broadway. Northcutt was the driving force behind this climb which was considered the most difficult and technically advanced climb in Colorado at the time.

Four years later, Kor returned with Tex Bossier to established the “Diagonal Direct”, which followed the main crack system a few hundred feet higher before exiting right to gain Broadway. They finished the climb in a raging snowstorm, and Bossier was reportedly knocked out of his aiders by a small avalanche while following the last pitch. He left a bunch of Kor’s pitons behind, which Layton was not too pleased about.

In 1980, the Diagonal Direct was free climbed by Jeff Achey and Charlie Fowler at 5.11. In this image from 1981, I am navigating the first of several cruxes high on the climb. This must have been the 2nd or 3rd free ascent of the climb. A late season and very dirty Mills Glacier is visible 700 feet below.

The entire Diagonal crack system that runs continuously from Mills Glacier to Broadway was not climbed until 1987 when I led the “Diagonal Super Direct” at 5.11d, staying in the main crack system all the way to Broadway. This stellar finish, passing through acres of marble-like granite, is one of the best pitches anywhere.