Starting up the Diagonal Direct with my brother Bill belaying. Photo: Glenn Randall
THE START TO THE DIAGONAL
All of the versions of the Diagonal share this same start which Larry Dalke freed and rated 5.9 in about 1965. It’s just about always wet (as in this photo) and rated 5.10d in Gillette’s guidebook. Most modern climbers would probably consider it 5.11, if not impossible because of the wetness. It’s a rude shock to the body and mind to warm up this way!