WESTERN SKYLINE (5.11+)

Since I was a teenager I always thought there could be a direct line up the west face of the Third Flatiron. But there was no protection for most of it. In 1974 John Bragg and I climbed a new route that we named the Direct West Face, visible in this photo. We came in from the left, traversing to the right, under the lowest overhang, to gain the short splitter finger crack straight above me. Then we exited up and to the right.

Forty five years later in 2009 some of us decided to establish the absolute direct line, in modern style. We scoped it out on rappel, then applied and got approval from City of Boulder Open Space. We went up there with about ten bolts and a power drill, rappelled down the line, and placed bolts in the best locations. Then my other three companions - Matt Samet, Dave Turner, and my brother, Bill - gave me the honors of leading it for the first time with the new bolts in place. This photo captures that first lead. When I finished, we pulled the rope and Dave led it, and then Matt led it. We had established a brilliant new route, my last first ascent.